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Exploring Plovdiv - Europe's oldest city

8/22/2016

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"....the biggest and loveliest of all cities. Its beauty shines from faraway." This is how Lucian, a Roman writer, described Plovdiv and I think it's such an apt description.

Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria but it definitely feels more like a village. It's one of the oldest cities in Europe, having been continuously inhabited for 6,000 years. It’s a really interesting place filled with ancient Roman ruins, and has even been awarded European Capital of Culture 2019.

Plovdiv has an impressive old town. I think it’s still one of my favourite old towns in Europe. It was freezing when we there in April, and was therefore pretty empty, which meant we could really take our time when wandering around.

We stayed at Residence Art Guest House which was lovely. The owner and his family were so kind, I highly recommend this place. Its location is perfect too.

I was surprised by how cosmopolitan Plovdiv felt. It definitely wasn’t how I pictured Bulgaria! It is split into two areas – the old and new town. In the new town, the streets are lined with chic cafes and restaurants offering a wide range of cuisines – plus the typical Bulgarian tavernas. In fact, I had one of the best meals of my life at Maramao – an amazing Italian restaurant.

​Look how delicious! I’d go back just for that mouth-watering food. *Drools*.
The pizza looks average but it was really good!

What to do in Plovdiv

Plovdiv has a surprising number of activities to do, and you could easily spend two or three days there.

Explore the old town

Spend a whole day seeing the sights of the old town. We probably wandered around for a day and a half – and I don’t even have a good attention span! It’s quite hilly and full of big cobblestones so wear comfortable shoes.

The Roman Theatre


This is the highlight. It was my first real exposure to Roman ruins and I was pretty impressed. You can get a drink from a bar right beside it and sit and enjoy the view. It was practically empty when we visited, except for a few cats, and it was really peaceful sitting in the sun and imagining what it must have been like to perform here all those years ago. Don’t miss it. Prepare for the photo onslaught...

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The Icon Gallery

We also went to the Icon Gallery, which is a room glistening in gold! I was actually pretty into it…it was crazy seeing all these religious paintings that are older than NZ. I’m pretty blasé about this now though…I have seen too many old paintings over the last few months.

Ethnographic Museum

We also stopped by the Ethnographic Museum – it’s worth a look if you’re into that kind of thing, but I got bored and sat outside instead. It does house a lot of cool stuff though - over 40,000 exhibits dedicated to life in Plovdiv through the ages. 
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Walk up to Puldin fortress
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There is a track up behind the Ethnographic Muesum where you can climb to the top of a hill and see great views out over Plovdiv, as well as fortress ruins. This is a good place to get some shots of the town – and it is a nice walk if you can find the path that goes through all the greenery! It's a quick easy walk up - only ten mins or so.


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The Ancient Stadium of Philippopolis
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The stadium is hard to miss – it seems to be at the point where the old and new towns seem to merge. It’s worth having a look for ten minutes. Maybe check this out before the Roman Theatre – then you’ll be impressed by both.
Park Tsar Simeon

Park Tsar Simeon is lovely to walk around – it’s down the southern end of town, next to the square. It boasts the largest singing fountains after Barcelona. We were only here during the day but it’s meant to be magical at night time. It’s a great park and full of locals. Look at this adorable old couple strolling through.


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Explore 'The Trap'

This is a great area to wander around and seek out different restaurants and pubs. It's called The Trap because you will get lost! The streets all twist and turn and you have no idea where you are. Some of the best cafes are hidden here. It's the heart of Plovdiv's flourishing café culture. Also, there is a lot of cool street art you should keep an eye out for.
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Eating Plovdiv

Other than the above – we just walked around and ate. I love the Bulgarian tavernas and all their wooden panelling and nooks and crannies. Some typical Bulgarian dishes that you must try are:
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  • Shopska salad – famous for its white cheese (it’s not feta!)
  • Stuffed peppers – I miss these
  • Stuffed courgettes
  • Stuffed eggplants
  • All of the skara – grilled meats, often on a giant skewer
  • Pork with rice
  • Moussaka
  • Kavarma – a popular pork and vegetable stew made in a clay pot
  • Anything with meatballs
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I also loved that a lot of the locals thought I was Bulgarian! Having mainly just travelled in Asia, where it’s preeeetty obvious I’m a tourist, it was a new experience having people talk to me in Bulgarian while I just stood there with a blank look on my face.
There is plenty more to do. There are some impressive churches such as Chiesa SS Constantine Elena, Church of the Holy Mother of God, and Sveta Marina church. I also liked Dzhendem Tepe or Youth Hill - which is one of Plovdiv seven hills situated in a lovely park. 

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Getting there

​To get to Plovdiv we bussed from Istanbul. I think it took 6 or 7 hours, and then was a long wait at the border – at least an hour. I think it was about £15.

To get to Sofia we took the train – it was about £5 I think and took 3 hours. There is a lot of discussion online about how terrible the Sofia train station is but I can't even remember it so it must be okay! We took the metro from the train station. It was an incredible train ride and I highly recommended it. The scenery is amazing. Look at that bridge!
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I shall now leave you with more photos from beautiful Plovdiv. I know this post has been pretty photo heavy so I will forgive you if you don't continue scrolling!
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    I'm Miranda, a 28 year old from NZ. I basically just travel for the food. And beer. Food and beer.

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